Sunday, November 6, 2011
The weekend the time changed
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
Having a Good Hair Day
Sometime in mid June, the waters crested over 19 feet. Today’s high water mark is 18.3. It has been fun to kiss a guy with a fuzzy face for awhile, but we have started to dare think the time has come to break out a new razor and put it to the task. Mike agreed to sport the beard until the river dips below the flood level of 16 feet, but even with the reduced flows from the Garrison Dam, the river’s height is dropping very gradually. Authorities contend that the worst is behind us. At this rate, by the time the river reaches 16 feet, there could be a lot more gray in the good-luck goatee.
The moustache magic is clearly working. To our surprise, we have managed to put together a fairly normal summer despite our circumstances.
On a recent sparkling Saturday, I became the third fastest female triathlete in North Dakota. 24 hours later, I was the lanterne rouge in my first ever cycling road race, before I abandoned. I am officially sticking with swimming. And have been swimming well, sometimes pell-melling down the lawn, over the levee and straight into the river on the heels of a ride or run in the wicked humidity.
We have learned what “triple digit heat index” means, and have come to appreciate air conditioning, that nemesis of sinus cavities and contact lenses but blessed purveyor of a decent night’s sleep.
We have moved our dining room and most of our living room back into the house, and we enjoyed every moment of the Tour de France on TV, perched on the couch instead of a patio chair. We are racking up the cycling miles ourselves (ill-fated road race notwithstanding), discovering picturesque outposts of Americana a few short pedal strokes from home. Nice men on Harley Davidsons pull up next us at intersections to ask if we are carrying enough water on our bikes during the hottest days.
New running routes are being discovered; many of the best trails are underwater. I was nearly home from a long run the other day when I encountered a police checkpoint guarding the dike I’d need to cross to get there. Fines for trespassing on the levees are steep —$1000 per violation — it is unsafe to walk on them and their integrity is critical to the protection of the homes along the river. The cute cop said I had to turn around, which meant backtracking much further than seemed physically possible in the heat. I asked him to turn around himself, so he would not see me vault a nearby chainlink fence, avoiding the levee by running down the expressway toward home. Thank heaven Bismarck traffic is light and the men in blue have a sense of humor. He waved.
Thousands of sandbags bake in the sun every day – not just those surrounding our houses, but the pallets and piles that lie dormant in the sandbag lots. They are a testament to many busy hands and stalwart souls that believed our efforts could make a difference. For such a mellow and pragmatic crowd, North Dakotans are over-achievers.
I remember a conversation with Garret who shoveled sandbags for us for hours one Sunday morning. He said, “Can you imagine how we will all feel a few weeks or months from now when we know that we have saved the town? When everyone, from the little kids who tied sandbags to the teenagers driving Bobcats to the moms and dads and brothers and sisters who shoveled and hauled and built….can look back at this and realize that it was their efforts that made all of the difference?”
I can imagine it now.
Our neighborhood has become a messy jumble of levees, their tarps tattered by the wind and blowing into the gardens. Pontoon boats cruise our bay on lazy afternoons. Conversations turn to cleaning up, replacing carpet, moving back in….and at our house….shaving.
Sunday, June 12, 2011
Waiting Game
We have lost weight, but gained heart.
[The other day Mike took his jeans off without unbuttoning them. I laughed what is left of my a** off.]
The dam continues to spew ever-increasing flows in our general directon. I believe the output today is around 135,000 cfs. We remain tucked safely behind the clay barrier that is plugging our bay, and a dike that hems our neighborhood in against the river. The de-watering pumps that were pushing water out of our part of the river into the main channel at a rate of 8,000 gallons per minute earlier this week have been quiet for several days.
The water level has receded from our backyard, and we've heard nary a burp from our sump pump lately.
I understand that just under 800 households have been evacuated, and certainly there's evidence of the river's wrath around virtually every corner. Two streets away from us, a family simply bulldozed their damaged home over. The Jetty Beach neighborhood, which we can see from our house, has been completely deserted.
The good news is that even in the main channel, the water is not rising at the forecast rate, giving hope to some who had, days earlier, given their homes up for lost.
So we wait and see. We try to do "normal" things. Get a haircut. Go for a bike ride. Plant some flowers. Sign up for a triathlon. Work an 8 hour day and try not to feel guilty that your sandbag blisters are starting to heal.
The community leaders, National Guard, Corps of Engineers, construction companies and engineering firms have done what they can to protect the town. Neighbors have moved each other out of their homes, and built walls, and prayed for eachother.
It seems to be working.
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
The Ripple Effect
So a handful of very motivated neighbors called in a private engineering firm to discuss a new plan. This plan entailed a several mile long dike to hold back the flow, clay "plugs" that would seal off the bays we live on from the main channel of the Missouri, and a "de-watering" system that would help reduce the impact of groundwater. The strategy would also protect the waste water treatment plant that serves our area. The project would take between 750,000 and 1 million sandbags to complete.
With the help of city officials, the National Guard, Corps of Engineers, construction companies from throughout the state and thousands of volunteers, the implementation of this plan has been underway for about 24 hours. The first of the bay "plugs" is being constructed, and there's cautious optimism about its success. The community and National Guard cranked out over 250,000 sandbags on Memorial Day. That could be enough to seal off the waste water plant, which is a top priority.
The hope is for the dike surrounding the area to be complete by Saturday.
We continue to persevere on the home front while spending as much time at "Sandbag Site #3" to contribute to the community good. Each household's part of the venture is 3000 sandbags. Mike and I can fill about 80 per hour.
We have moved everything out of our basement and virtually everything out of the main floor. Mike, Laif, Jim, Jeff and Josh came by yesterday to help us move the last of the big furniture into our trailer, and also pull up the carpet out of the basement. Things that were too heavy to move were put up on cinder blocks.
We plan to live on our third floor until we are told to evacuate, which we still believe is a strong possiblilty, despite the protective measures underway. There is no way of knowing how much water will be released from the dam in the end. It is raining cats and dogs in Montana, and the snowmelt really has only started.
Today we put a deposit on a rental house, so we will have a place to go when the time comes. We are incredibly lucky to have found it. And we can bring Daffodil and Sundance! That is a huge relief as their antics have helped us keep our chins up in the darkest moments. I can't imagine parting with them.
The water is rising (we are starting to see the impact of yesterday's increased flow). It is windy and dark outside, which makes everything seem so much worse.
Yesterday I signed us up for the Reverse 911 service so we'll get any emergency updates on our cell phones. A week ago, I did not even know such a thing existed.
Heartfelt thanks to all of you who have offered your support to us over the last few days. We have been truly touched by your concern and offers of help. Take care out there.
Sunday, May 29, 2011
Bad news and good friends
This news -- and its surrounding flock of rumors -- meant moments of dumbfounded panic which quickly turned into action. And, powered by the heartfelt concern, determination, and pure muscle of our friends, we have moved most of the furniture out of the first and second stories of our house, have a place to store it, and have a strong line on a temporary home.
The neighborhood is filled deep into the night with the sound of heavy equipment, the ever-widening puddles of water flowing out of sump pumps, and frightened faces everywhere.
Yesterday was filled with moments of truth:
I visited three separate sand bagging locations searching for a bale of loose bags (our neighbors shared a pile of sand that they'd had delivered with us). For several hours, the community was nearly "out." About 3 million bags have been filled, and this morning I heard the mayor say on the radio that another 3 are on their way.
I nearly lost my mind when I climbed the stepladder into the attic with my wedding dress over my arm and tucked it away.
A woman called into the radio station looking for help from someone who lives near the humane society on the north side of Mandan because they had been unable to cross town to feed the pets in the shelter.
Mike, Laif, Jeff, Barbara, Rick, Al, Diane and others shared their time, resources and connections to help us find solutions and get the work done. We can not say enough to thank you. The written word rarely fails me, but here I am.
I have added more photos here.
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.229507787062822.76105.100000108077904#!/media/set/?set=a.229507787062822.76105.100000108077904
Saturday, May 28, 2011
Hoping and Coping
That changed in a flash with announcements early last week that the Corps of Engineers planned to increase the flow from the upstream Garrison dam by over 50,000 cubic feet per second into the river, our town, and our backyard. Heavy snow pack, rain -- and perhaps a lack of perspicacity on the part of the Corps of Engineers -- backed the water up behind the dam with no where to go but here.
In the days that followed, the news worsened. The release will rise to 85,000 cubic feet per second on Monday, to 90,000 cfs on June 4, to 95,000 on June 6 and 100,000 on June 7. It could reportedly elevate to 120,000 cfs in time. The highest flow ever recorded in the past was 64,000 cfs.
Flood stage on the Missouri is 16 feet; at 100,000 cfs the river will rise over 18. Yesterday, the river level stood at 15.8 feet.
It has been inspiring to be part of a community that has united to plan, build, and tackle the incredibly hard physical labor together. Most people have been going to their jobs for a few hours each morning then joining crews to shore up the property of friends, relatives, and strangers. I am overwhelmed with gratitude to the team of Mike's colleagues who worked tirelessly with us on Thursday to help protect our home.
About a half dozen sandbag stations have been created by the National Guard where folks are shoveling scoop after scoop of sand into bags, hefting them onto trucks, driving them home and building walls.
Information flow is improving, though government officials are facing credibility issues because the news they share often changes, leading to scary rumors and false hopes. This is a "historic event" (floods are extremely rare here, and one of this magnitude has never been experienced) so we're all in uncharted territory, community leaders included.
We learned last night that a dike that had been planned to protect our neighborhood from the worst of the flow will not be built after all. This changes our mindset from "hey we could be OK" to "let's move everything our of the basement, come up with an evacuation plan, and try to figure out where we are going to live for the months it could take to recover from this if we have to leave it behind."
I have found that I cope best in this emergency when my hands are moving. Lifting a shovel, carrying a sandbag, pushing a wheelbarrow. It is difficult to concentrate on much else. Mike has been helping friends and colleagues every day, while also gearing us up with sump pumps, a generator, and doing the literal heavy lifting at our place.
Our neighborhood has come together in a collaborative and supportive spirit, and we have been heartened by everyone's generosity and guidance. Sherri, our friend who cares for our kittens when we travel and lives in a safe part of town, came by just to let us know that if we are forced to go, she will take our dear little Sundance and Daffodil into her home. This quiet comfort means the world.
Shelley from across the street made me laugh last night for the first time in days.
This post is getting long and it is starting to rain. I have added photos to my facebook page here: http://www.facebook.com/krnmaria3#!/media/set/?set=a.229507787062822.76105.100000108077904 if you'd like to have a look. I will try to keep updating both here and there.
Meanwhile, I understand open water swim season starts this weekend in Seattle. Don't get me started.
Sunday, April 10, 2011
Pedal Power with a Purpose
Saturday, March 12, 2011
Weather or Not
Turns out, while I watched the "wintry mix" of rain and snow blowing sideways from the cozy comfort of my home office all day, over 800 motorists were stranded on the highways across North Dakota.
From the Bismarck Tribune: "Interstate 94 was still closed from Dickinson to Fargo as of 11:30 a.m. Saturday, as was U.S. Highway 83 from Bismarck to Minot and highways west of Garrison. No travel advisories remained in effect for areas from south and west of Hazen east to state Highway 3 and in the Jamestown and Valley City areas. Interstate 29 was reopened from Fargo to the South Dakota border but remained closed from Watertown to Sisseton. I-29 also was closed from the Canadian border to Grand Forks and state Highway 1806 was closed between Highway 8 and Highway 200."
Wow. After the main arteries of the state were closed because they were impossible to traverse on Friday, many drivers abandoned their vehicles, rescued by state department of transportation workers. Some were even discovered by helicopters this morning.
I should have known not to make light of it. As I was driving home from swim practice early Friday the local announcer on Prairie Public radio warned of a no-travel advisory across the state, and recommended that if you had to go out, you should "be sure your winter emergency kit is well supplied. And if you are stranded, please stay with your car." If I've learned anything about my new demographic, North Dakotans are a hearty, determined bunch. It takes some pretty serious weather to keep them from going about their business. I should have known.
Life goes on, and there's no drama.
Reflective perhaps of the unsinkable spirit of this place, today dawned sunny and beautiful. Our driveway had been naturally "shoveled" by the wind; the large blizzardy snowfall had drifted gently but firmly into our neighbor's yard.
Primetime Big 10 basketball coverage notwithstanding, I think I am going to like it here. But I'd be lying if I didn't own up to the tug on my heart as I spoke with my sister by phone today, and she said that daffodils are blooming in Oregon.
Sunday, March 6, 2011
867-5309
Yep, same here.
Until we moved to Bismarck, where the phone book is more than a handy doorstop or a quarterly nuisance to drag to the recycle bin. (Assuming, of course, there was a recycling recepticle at the ready. But that's a story for another day.)
Upon moving into our home, our realtor Amy greeted us with the house keys and a warm welcome. She noticed there didn't seem to be a phone book around, and kindly offered to give us one of the extras she had in her office. We declined, brandishing iPad and Blackberry and bemused grins.
Fast forward to Valentine's Day. Dear Mike had arranged for a beautiful bouquet of red tulips to be delivered me at our home. Around 9 am, I received a call from Amanda, the delivery person.
"I have some flowers for you," she said. "But I can't find your house in the phone book. You know, on the map in the front. Where do you live?"
Our house has been here since 2002. We live in a fairly familiar part of town. Mike had given the florist our address and phone number.
I was excited about the flowers (which were beautiful, by the way -- what could be more precious than tulips when it's 30 below?), I bit my tongue and gave her directions.
In the ensuing weeks, we observed a related phenomenon: very few local businesses have their own websites. A Google search for everything from haircuts to hardware stores coughs up a list of aggregators. Marketing here is word of mouth, charmingly sincere radio advertising, and, you guessed it, the good old fashioned phone book.
On top of that, somehow GPS and Google maps are not yet in vogue. I have given everyone from the plumber to the electrician to the housekeeper directions to our place recently. In Seattle, you wouldn't insult someone's tech savvy by even offering. Here, it's common courtesy. That said, I can get by with "cross the river, get off at Mackenzie, and go left-right-left and stop at the white house" which seems to work even though our home does not have a number on it.
Recently, I spent nine days on the West Coast. I walked barefoot in the sand. I listened to top notch local radio. I drank really great coffee. I saw trees. And mountains. And had conversations about something other than the weather.
And I was homesick for this crazy flat snowy land, and a home that somehow is not on the map in the phone book.
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Of Wizardry, Walleye and Wonder
Saturday, February 5, 2011
You've Got Mail.
Life does seem to go on, even on very cold days, as people motor gingerly along on icy streets to the gym, the grocery store, and inevitably the drive-thru Starbucks, which boasts the only rush hour traffic jam in town, it seems.
I am sure we'll learn some tricks to cope with the cold, and even some ways to use it to our advantage. The first advice of this nature was shared with me by my new friend Dave the Mailman.
I had some mail to send out Wednesday morning, so I braved the elements in search of our mailbox, which I expected to find in its customary spot on either side of our driveway. It had snowed a great deal last weekend, and the fluffy white stuff had drifted up to several feet high around our yard...and frozen solid. I figured the mailbox was under one of the drifts, but wasn't sure where to start shoveling.
Enter Dave the Mailman, who rang our doorbell around 1 pm. Mike's sister and her family had sent us a lovely box full of housewarming goodies (thank you, Trish!), which Dave delivered with a smile.
"Do you know where our mailbox is?" I asked him, after introductions were made. "I think I will try to shovel it out when it warms up a little tomorrow."
With a wry smile Dave answered, "You don't have one. The last family who lived here used a P.O. box in town. So you'll need to put one in if you want one."
Together we looked across the yard and did the same math. The snow was high, and the ground will be frozen solid for months. Digging a post hole for a mailbox was out of the question.
"Here's what you can do," he said. "Get a mailbox and put it on a post. Fill a five gallon bucket with water. Put the post in the water, put the bucket outside, and it will stand up just fine until spring."
He saw my skepticism and assured me people do it all the time. Other local folks who have heard this story have just sort of smiled at us indulgently, so we're not sure what to think.
All I know is that it's been nice to see Dave the Mailman each afternoon since, as he's hand delivered the mail that is slowly starting to find its way to our new address. In a world with so much electronic correspondence, there's something awfully comforting about that.
We'll get the box up soon, and keep you posted about how we get it done!
Sunday, January 30, 2011
Snow Day
We have received all kinds of advice and commentary on our decision to move to Bismarck, but today I want to focus on a specific area. Many of you have taken to following the weather in Bismarck for us, and delight in telling us the current temperature or snowfall. I have been trying to live in denial about this, but as our move nears completion, this is no longer possible. So, today, we talk about snow. Specifically, snow removal.

Saturday, January 29, 2011
One Way Road Trip
Ready for sleep and looking forward to enjoying Montana in the daylight tomorrow.
Thursday, January 27, 2011
We're in this together.
With only a little contemplation, the narcissist that I am answered, "me."
Sure, I will miss the girl that lives for early morning lake swims, and the tall Starbucks drip with room that inevitably follows. I will miss the peruser of pumpkin patches, you know her, the one with her face turned up to the rain and the perpetual bad hair day. The one who loves to ride up Juanita Hill, and go barrelling recklessly down it. The one who knows the cemeteries and gardens, the secretest beaches and clearest mountain views. The one who knows the radio stations, past and present. The drinking fountains that work all year round on the bike and running routes. The one whose best weeks start with an 11th century tradition sung loud and lovely.
There's no doubt I will miss the Seattle person that I am. But over the last month I've come to realize it isn't me that I can't leave behind, it's all of you. So guess what? I'm bringing you with me.
Thank you for filling my kitchen with your noise and your love.
For snowshoes and conversation. A papier mache mermaid. A hand written note. A magical storybook given and received. A massage. Sad eyes that said I am picturing my world without you in it every day, and I don't like it. A hat you knitted yourself. Space Needle shaped pasta. A rainbow of spectacularly glamorous nailpolish bottles, one from each, and the poetically perfect final blue. For sharing a shamelessly enormous bacon cheeseburger. For a workout of my choice: 4 x 100 for time sandwiched between stroke sets. For Seattle Starbucks mugs. For the time you didn't have to give, but you gave it anyway. A candle. A beer at the local. A heart shape that will hold four distant souls together. For calling. For holding my hand. Loaning me your step ladder. A lunch break spent watching the meerkats at the zoo. For Little House on the Prairie. And a reminiscent relishing of a Peet's vanilla latte together. For staying late and doing the dishes. For telling me about the thing you remember me saying or doing that you think might have changed you. For coming to my last speech.
For crying, and for not crying.
And for being in my heart and making me what I am, wherever I go. Whether you like it or not, you're moving to North Dakota, too.